Posts Tagged ‘lapel’

That is the most common answer my friends gave me when I’m asking their opinion about a brown, usually in wingtip oxford or derby.

When they thing about classic shoes, they always think about wearing it to office, conference or wedding, and anytime they think about something slightly rendering toward and sign of formality, they think about black.

My say, black is overrated and brown is underrated. And then you will ask,”Care to explain why ?” I surely do.

My friends, we are living in Jakarta, on the beginning of the 21st century. Jakarta for one, is not the place for extreme tradition of sartorial perfection, in here you can go to most clubs wearing jeans, polo shirt and sneakers, and go to the office dresses in oversized shirts or ridiculously tight trousers. And if those perfunctory slack is acceptable than surely wearing a sharp, high quality brown leather shoes is acceptable too?

Let’s think about office function. Most of the Jakartans goes to the office with long sleeve shirts, dark colored trousers, few will have ties hanging , even fewer will go with French cuffs (mostly bankers or hustlers). Now check your wardrobe, and ask your self how many of your trousers are in grey, charcoal, and blue ? If the amount of is comparable with the black, congratulate your self, because you just found yourself a ticket to use your brown shoes to the office.

My good readers, the brown leather shoes, in any material (calf or suede) are excellent combination for any grey or dark blue trousers. It provides a harmonious combination, and a niche that is standing out from commonality. And truth to tell this is a perfectly acceptable combination for your office and business needs, and it works well with suit too. The brown semi brogue cap toe or wingtip oxford are several of the ideals.

If you are one of those posh who prefer to be draped in suit rather than batik for wedding invitation, try to opt for grey suit in any variation or navy blue, and then done your brown shoes, brown belt and if you have it a brown leather strapped watch. You’ll be surprise on how the color combination works, again any sign toward formality like monk-strap combinations, oxford and derby, will  provide a sound host.

What about batik ? Well in my humble opinion wearing a black trouser, black shoes with batik are dull. Next time try to opt of creamy colored batik instead of shining, silky like , dominant in black batik. And then try to use your grey-ish trousers instead of black, and then done any of your brown dress shoes (anything but moc style driving shoes), and then check yourself in the mirror. You’ll be amaze on how the color and pattern combination explode yet complementing each other, provide an elegant and exquisite look, and sublime level of confidence.

My bottom line remains, the black is overrated while the brown is underrated, as long as you have a brown leather belt, and neutral or brown wrist strapped, you have all the more reasons to wear brown.

Now that I have provided you with a reference of a good tailor, its now come to your discretion on what sort of details that you want to have when you come to the tailor and have your suit made. Generally, I will strongly advise you to visit dept store and designers boutique to see and feel what your preference going to be. The cut, the materials, the label, the lapel width, lapel type, pockets, buttons and every details that comes with the suit.

Usually, the tailor will have to ask you some obvious, such as the fabric choice,  suit type (single breasted, double breasted) some will go as far to ask what sort of buttons that you want (for some reasons, many Indonesian high end tailor, like to offer customer with fancy metal, emblem buttons, and for some reasons, many customers opted that rather then conventional mother of pearl).

But other than that beware, the suit that you would  get may not exactly what you have imagined. Hence, the list:

• Lapel, the choice can be peak or notched. For ordinary business requirement, choose peak lapel
• Lapel wide, in Asia (including Indonesia) the tendency for the tailor is to use wide lapel.  If you like prefer narrower one, like I do, ask him to do so
• Sleeve buttons,  four buttons only
• Vent, this is the tail of your suit, side vents for English style, single vents for American, no vents for Italian. My preference ? side vents, it helps you when you sit, and leaves the suit form intact.
• Number of buttons, two or three, but never four, and used one only for tux
• Shoulder Pad, generally it depends on your figure, if your shoulder sloppy you could as for full pad, but if your should big enough, ask for less pad, this will help accentuate your figure rather naturally
• Sleeve length, tell him that you want the suit shorter than the shirt sleeve, as such when you standing, and both of your arms on the side, 1 cm of your shirt sleeve will leaved exposed
• Same things goes with your shirt collar
• The trousers, can be pleated or not. If you on average build, you can opt for non pleated, it enhanced the slim posture
• Trouser can be cuffed or not. In general choose no cuff.
• Belt loop. Some opted for looples waist, hence enhancing the clean and slim line of the trouser. Surely you can gain or loose weight in a time, in which case you can add side adjuster instead.
• Breast pocket. In my experience, due to tendency to make a relatively wide lapel, it sometimes resulting the lapel covering the breast pocket. I prefer the line of breast pocket is visible and slightly touched on the corner by a lapel, but again, you may need to ask for it.
• If you have a picture of your wanna be suit, show it and leave it, it’s good that your tailor have other reference other than his note.

When its finally ready for first fitting, wear a shirt that you normally wear with your sit, buttoned the upper most button (if two-button) or two upper most (if three-button) of your suit jacker and examine the following details:

• Sleeve length should felt 1 cm shorter that your shirt sleeve
• Your lapel should felt 1 cm shorter that your collar
• Your trousers behind should felt straight above your shoe heel, while the front part will wrinkled slightly covering your shoe lace.
• Ensure that the lapel falls flat on your chest, and the back side felt close with the shirt collar with no gap in between
• The jacket waist drape nicely around your own, and minimum stretch
• Your shoulder doesn’t bulge
• When you move you arms within reasonable range the remainging of the jackets will stays.
• The jacket length should be suffice to cover your arse, but no to long.
• Ensure that other details follow your original requirement
• Finally, take some moment, to try walk, sit and stand still. In any of these body position, you should feel the utmost convenient. After all what is the purpose of the tailor made clothes if it’s not comfy.

If you think I missed anything on this list, feel free to add.

In my entire adult life, I have mostly acquired suits off the rack on the department store. My latest off the rack acquisition was two years a go, a black 2-button suits of doubtful fabric by the brand named Carthago. It’s ok, it’s not bad, but far from impressive, I am remotely satisfied, but that was what my money can buy, or at least so I thought. It wasn’t until long that one of my best friend got married, and she entrusted a beautiful batik materials in two tone, to be made a shirt.

Having no experience on custom made shirt, I put my confidence in the only tailor I am familiar with, not because of its workmanship, but because of his proximity (I regularly passed through his workshop everytime I go to work). As it happens to be, he is pretty established tailor in the district, he claimed to have tailored for a like such as city mayor, and district head. Quick observation on his suit sample, I found that it is of the decent quality. So without further due, I entrust my batik material in his hands. Some thorough measurement, and quick question on how I want the batik fits me, and two weeks later, its finished, and I’m amazed by the fit, and how beautifully the batik fits on my body. It cost me IDR200k for the tailor, money well spend.

Having satisfied with these, I came back to him again to have a gray suit commissioned. Now I have to admit, Pak Haji, as the old guy is fondly called is probably not one of those top of the notch tailor you’ll find in hotels or fancy malls. His fabrics are decent but not excellent, and his approach on tailor made service may not be comparable with those of Saville Row, but I tell you what he is, his price is affordable, he takes personal approach on each of his customers, and he gives good if not stubborn advice.

By no means I am an easy customer, so after the first thorough measurements, I return twice for refit and adjustments, and it took more than 1 month for my first suit to complete. But all in all, I am a happy customer. The fit was perfect, the material is very comfy and it compliments my figure.

Pak Haji is fairly flexible, unlike those snobbish tailor who usually insist on certain thing, he listened to my requirement, before he make comments on what he thinks about it. Whether he agree or disagree, you still can enforced your will, and he will delivers.

Having said that, his work can not be compared with the upper end tailor. His suit canvas is glued, not stitched and this alone attest that his work can not and must not be categorized in bespoke class, despite the fact that it is made from scratch and to your specific measurement.

A set of suit is offered at starter price of IDR900k (wool blend), a wool suit is started at IDR1.5mio up to IDR2.75mio. A shirt is offered at IDR250k for plain or IDR300k (stripped). You can also bring your own fabrics.

After two suits, an odd jacket, two trousers, a batik, and a dress shirts, do I still need to explain how satisfied I am ?

Paris Tailor can be contacted at 021-8619411

One thing that particularly captured my eye when watching this movie, other than the pretty girls and beautiful 60′s settings was the choice of suits that was wore by Bill Nighy.  They were mostly checked suits, combined with floral patterned shirts, either tie or scarf are used as a neck accessories, alternately, never at the same time, but always, always, always complemented with pocket square.

Now admittedly, there is small to nil chance that I will ever wear such combination. But I have to admit, that when I see the good old Bill wore it, it was pleasant to watch. It helps that he is Bil Nighy, I mean with his lean build and odd persona on silver screen, you kind of de facto accept it, that there is no outfit is too ridiculous for him to wear.

Anyway, I take some time to get screen shot from the DVD. Enjoy and comments are appreciated as always.

Bill Night in The Boat that Rocked, with gray checked suit, midnight blue shirts, and khaki/brown pocket fountain square

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, and you think dark suit and dark shirt don't match up ?

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, pin stripe navy blue double breasted, blue floral patterned shirt and silk purple tie

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, look at the fabolous scarf ? Michelle I really wish you give that scarf to me

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, very interesting lapel. Never seen like it these days.

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, my favorite suit, shirt and tie combination in the movie.

Twenty years ago, a suit without a tie is only used with spread collar shirt who spread on top of the suit lapel, the way Al Pacino did in the Scarface.

While its true that some unenlightened men still wears the spread collar and suit, mafia style, the preference today is more on the stand up collar, independent from lying down on the suit lapel. I’m not really sure who brought the trend up, but I’m pretty sure the likes such as George Clooney, Johny Depp and some other Hwood celebs, have reasonably significant contribution on bringing this style into its popularity.

Is more chick, trendier  and far more comfortable then wearing a tie. It’s an expression of style for a men who wish to be seen as a casual, down to earth and fun, which negates the impression of stiff and formal that a tie in knot imposed.

This style can be pretty flexible to use, casual fine dining occasions with friends and family, clubbing, or even weekend stroll in the city. A suit of style give out an easy going impression that is comfortable enough only for the wearer but also for the observer.

And whilst wearing suit without a tie can be done by almost anyone, including some of us who will have some discomfort wearing tight collar that pressing the neck, there are some informal suggestions that you can follow to ensure that this new style expression do you the proper justice you deserved.

• Ensure that your collar is stiff enough that it will stand out outside the lapel (not on top, or inside). If your shirt are one of those quality shit who has its detachable collar bone, that you will encounter no problem, just ensure that the collar bone is in place and in good condition.
• If you don’t have these kind of shirts, that the other option is to wear a button down shirt (which is informal in its roots) and its derivative. This model will ensure that your collar will always stand up independent from the lapel.
• Avoid wearing black suit when doing this style, black suit is naturally reserved for formal occasions. Hence wearing  black suit without a tie leave an impression that you just get off from some formal occasions that you are not comfortable with. Choose the usual business suit color such as navy gray (of all tone) and brown
• Don’t wear French-cuff shirt when you are utilizing this style, it’s just doesn’t work, likely due to to the contract impression that cuff link and tie less impose to each other
• Use two-button instead of three-button. The long V lapel of the two button, gives a room for the shirt to balance the color, the way the short lapel of three-button does not. For the same reasons, two button leaves your suit shape remains intact though you unbuttoned all the buttons, this will not happened with three-button
• Always leave the upper most button, of your shirt. You can open up to two upper most button of your shirt. More than that people my mistaken you as a drug dealer or a pimp. For the same reasons, leave out gold chained necklace, well except if you are Mr. Depp.
• Never, ever wear a tee inside a shirt, which will leaves an upper part of your tee peeked out from the unbutton shirt.

Well, that’s what I could think of by now, what do you reckon ?