Posts Tagged ‘three-button’

Now that I have provided you with a reference of a good tailor, its now come to your discretion on what sort of details that you want to have when you come to the tailor and have your suit made. Generally, I will strongly advise you to visit dept store and designers boutique to see and feel what your preference going to be. The cut, the materials, the label, the lapel width, lapel type, pockets, buttons and every details that comes with the suit.

Usually, the tailor will have to ask you some obvious, such as the fabric choice,  suit type (single breasted, double breasted) some will go as far to ask what sort of buttons that you want (for some reasons, many Indonesian high end tailor, like to offer customer with fancy metal, emblem buttons, and for some reasons, many customers opted that rather then conventional mother of pearl).

But other than that beware, the suit that you would  get may not exactly what you have imagined. Hence, the list:

• Lapel, the choice can be peak or notched. For ordinary business requirement, choose peak lapel
• Lapel wide, in Asia (including Indonesia) the tendency for the tailor is to use wide lapel.  If you like prefer narrower one, like I do, ask him to do so
• Sleeve buttons,  four buttons only
• Vent, this is the tail of your suit, side vents for English style, single vents for American, no vents for Italian. My preference ? side vents, it helps you when you sit, and leaves the suit form intact.
• Number of buttons, two or three, but never four, and used one only for tux
• Shoulder Pad, generally it depends on your figure, if your shoulder sloppy you could as for full pad, but if your should big enough, ask for less pad, this will help accentuate your figure rather naturally
• Sleeve length, tell him that you want the suit shorter than the shirt sleeve, as such when you standing, and both of your arms on the side, 1 cm of your shirt sleeve will leaved exposed
• Same things goes with your shirt collar
• The trousers, can be pleated or not. If you on average build, you can opt for non pleated, it enhanced the slim posture
• Trouser can be cuffed or not. In general choose no cuff.
• Belt loop. Some opted for looples waist, hence enhancing the clean and slim line of the trouser. Surely you can gain or loose weight in a time, in which case you can add side adjuster instead.
• Breast pocket. In my experience, due to tendency to make a relatively wide lapel, it sometimes resulting the lapel covering the breast pocket. I prefer the line of breast pocket is visible and slightly touched on the corner by a lapel, but again, you may need to ask for it.
• If you have a picture of your wanna be suit, show it and leave it, it’s good that your tailor have other reference other than his note.

When its finally ready for first fitting, wear a shirt that you normally wear with your sit, buttoned the upper most button (if two-button) or two upper most (if three-button) of your suit jacker and examine the following details:

• Sleeve length should felt 1 cm shorter that your shirt sleeve
• Your lapel should felt 1 cm shorter that your collar
• Your trousers behind should felt straight above your shoe heel, while the front part will wrinkled slightly covering your shoe lace.
• Ensure that the lapel falls flat on your chest, and the back side felt close with the shirt collar with no gap in between
• The jacket waist drape nicely around your own, and minimum stretch
• Your shoulder doesn’t bulge
• When you move you arms within reasonable range the remainging of the jackets will stays.
• The jacket length should be suffice to cover your arse, but no to long.
• Ensure that other details follow your original requirement
• Finally, take some moment, to try walk, sit and stand still. In any of these body position, you should feel the utmost convenient. After all what is the purpose of the tailor made clothes if it’s not comfy.

If you think I missed anything on this list, feel free to add.

In my entire adult life, I have mostly acquired suits off the rack on the department store. My latest off the rack acquisition was two years a go, a black 2-button suits of doubtful fabric by the brand named Carthago. It’s ok, it’s not bad, but far from impressive, I am remotely satisfied, but that was what my money can buy, or at least so I thought. It wasn’t until long that one of my best friend got married, and she entrusted a beautiful batik materials in two tone, to be made a shirt.

Having no experience on custom made shirt, I put my confidence in the only tailor I am familiar with, not because of its workmanship, but because of his proximity (I regularly passed through his workshop everytime I go to work). As it happens to be, he is pretty established tailor in the district, he claimed to have tailored for a like such as city mayor, and district head. Quick observation on his suit sample, I found that it is of the decent quality. So without further due, I entrust my batik material in his hands. Some thorough measurement, and quick question on how I want the batik fits me, and two weeks later, its finished, and I’m amazed by the fit, and how beautifully the batik fits on my body. It cost me IDR200k for the tailor, money well spend.

Having satisfied with these, I came back to him again to have a gray suit commissioned. Now I have to admit, Pak Haji, as the old guy is fondly called is probably not one of those top of the notch tailor you’ll find in hotels or fancy malls. His fabrics are decent but not excellent, and his approach on tailor made service may not be comparable with those of Saville Row, but I tell you what he is, his price is affordable, he takes personal approach on each of his customers, and he gives good if not stubborn advice.

By no means I am an easy customer, so after the first thorough measurements, I return twice for refit and adjustments, and it took more than 1 month for my first suit to complete. But all in all, I am a happy customer. The fit was perfect, the material is very comfy and it compliments my figure.

Pak Haji is fairly flexible, unlike those snobbish tailor who usually insist on certain thing, he listened to my requirement, before he make comments on what he thinks about it. Whether he agree or disagree, you still can enforced your will, and he will delivers.

Having said that, his work can not be compared with the upper end tailor. His suit canvas is glued, not stitched and this alone attest that his work can not and must not be categorized in bespoke class, despite the fact that it is made from scratch and to your specific measurement.

A set of suit is offered at starter price of IDR900k (wool blend), a wool suit is started at IDR1.5mio up to IDR2.75mio. A shirt is offered at IDR250k for plain or IDR300k (stripped). You can also bring your own fabrics.

After two suits, an odd jacket, two trousers, a batik, and a dress shirts, do I still need to explain how satisfied I am ?

Paris Tailor can be contacted at 021-8619411

One thing that particularly captured my eye when watching this movie, other than the pretty girls and beautiful 60′s settings was the choice of suits that was wore by Bill Nighy.  They were mostly checked suits, combined with floral patterned shirts, either tie or scarf are used as a neck accessories, alternately, never at the same time, but always, always, always complemented with pocket square.

Now admittedly, there is small to nil chance that I will ever wear such combination. But I have to admit, that when I see the good old Bill wore it, it was pleasant to watch. It helps that he is Bil Nighy, I mean with his lean build and odd persona on silver screen, you kind of de facto accept it, that there is no outfit is too ridiculous for him to wear.

Anyway, I take some time to get screen shot from the DVD. Enjoy and comments are appreciated as always.

Bill Night in The Boat that Rocked, with gray checked suit, midnight blue shirts, and khaki/brown pocket fountain square

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, and you think dark suit and dark shirt don't match up ?

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, pin stripe navy blue double breasted, blue floral patterned shirt and silk purple tie

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, look at the fabolous scarf ? Michelle I really wish you give that scarf to me

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, very interesting lapel. Never seen like it these days.

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, my favorite suit, shirt and tie combination in the movie.

Three years ago, my wardrobe wasn’t even half of my wardrobe size today. As my work life progress so is my wardrobe, which explain why suits and shirts is now playing a major rule in my life.

Looking back at the time, I’m now contemplating, what is the absolute minimum wardrobe components that a man must have when he just graduated from college and now entering the workforce.

Now, it’s ideal to have at least one or two options for each of the components, but experience wise, I don’t think many of us – including me – have that sort of luxury. So in this list , I limit to one each. Here are my takes

• A dark grey suit. This is acceptable for formal ceremonies as well as business occasions. The bottom line of good suits is a fit, so put an attention on the fit and sizing rather than the brand
• A black woven silk tie. Which will complement most shirts and most suit to any occasion, funeral included
• Two whites/or blue normal cuff shirt – cotton only no silk. Far more important that any other color, in case you need to conduct interview two days in a row. As soon as you landed the job, expand the shirts immediately !!!
• A black cap toe oxford. Never fail options, works for business as well as formals. In Indonesia, this is probably one of the most formal shoes you will ever need for the rest of your life.
• A long sleeves – cotton or silk batik, in any color that suit your profile. Never forget that we live in Indonesia, and batik is inseparable parts of our culture
• Black plain socks. Why black ? Oh well , gray will work as well (provided that your trouser is gray). But mostly suitable because your shoes is black (much about matching socks color will be discussed in a different post)
• Stainless steel wrist watch. No need to be expensive, even the Rp.300k Casio will do just fine. This helps accentuate the smart/executive image when you are being interviewed
• Black belt. Absolutely essential, choose with the simplest buckle design as possible. Avoid expensive branded belt, that overly exposed their logo in the buckle (example of this would be Gucci)
• White cotton/linen pocket square. Handy for accessories as well as hygienic purposes. Better than pocket size tissue pack.

There are some major optional that you can add, if you think the above list is already in your wardrobe:

• Odd Jacket of any kind materials, handy for clubbing, and more casual occasion that doesn’t command full suit.
• A brown loafer, which will definitely go hand in hand with any jeans that you have. Excellent for dress down Friday.
• Short sleeve Batik in cotton.

For girls who read this, you may think that this list is no brainer, but trust me, there are plenty of lost souls out there that needs to be saved So please add if I missed anything.

And I mean it.

The number of button on gentlemen suit has little or nothing to do with the degree of suit formality.  It also has nothing to do with the function appropriate. That goes without saying that there are certain “number of button” rules that you need to follow when you are ordering suit for black tie occasion.

Polo Ralph Lauren 3 Button Charcoal Suit (courtesy of www.ralphlauren.com)

The tendency, or should I say trend, in Indonesia, is for people to wear three-button suits regardless their physical shape and profile.  I kind of suspect, that the reason three-button are very popular are because of the common perception that three-button are more formal than the two-button.  And whilst it is comfortable to presumed so, the truth is, three-button and two-button are just equally as formal, and equally proper for almost all occasions.

Three-button suits are created for those who are tall and lean. The distance between the buttoned buttons (which are the two most upper buttons) helps press and drape the clothes on you body, which is beautiful if you are lean. In return, if you are fat, or chubby, or chunky, or beefy, or big boned (or which ever terms that you are comfortable with), it accentuate your curve, especially those  that you actually want to hide.

Other reasons, why three-button suits are for tall people is the length of the lapel. You will notice that three-button suit has shorter lapel, hence shorten the overall impression of the suit, and helps create a proportional image for tall men. For this reason, some experts recommend that three-button suit should only be used by a men taller than 6 feet (180cm-ish).

Short man, or fat man, need an impression of tall and lean. And for this reason two-button suit are very suitable. The lower upper button of the two-button is usually buttoned on the most upper button only, slightly above the waist, hence draping the clothes on the leaner part of your torso, creating a silhouette than flattered your figure.

Ralph Lauren Anthony Wool Gabardine Suit (courtesy of www.ralphlauren.com)

The lower upper button also means longer lapel, creating long V shape that stretch from your neck to your waist. And for those who familiar with visual perception will acknowledge, that any vertical lines that run along your clothes will help you looks slimmer, which is exactly what this lapel do. It helps if you opted for narrower lapel too.

One may argue that the choice between three-buttons and two-button, is a matter of taste and trend.  Well, it might be so, but  we need to bear in mind, that what ever clothes that we decided to wear, should at first flattered your figure then second follows the trend, and not the other way around.