Posts Tagged ‘two-button’

Surely not, Zara is a full fledged fashion label producing hundreds of new line and model creating trends every seasons in and out. Muji ? Hardly, we usually go to Muji for all sort of needs, stationary, domestic needs, and other necessities. But one rarely go to Muji for fashion items, and deservedly so, because in terms of originality, Muji clothes are offering not much. So what the hell am I doing here, comparing Muji with Zara ?

Yesterday, just mere yesterday, I happened to visit one of the Muji store in Plaza Indonesia, Jakarta. It was casual visit, not a purposeful shopping. But what we’ve witnessed yesterday and what were eventually purchased were saying otherwise.

Look at the two short sleeve shirts that my friends finally acquired, one in pale navy blue, the other is light whitish grey, with linen like texture, both reasonably priced at IDR200k something (USD25), way cheaper than Zara, or G2000, except when both were in sale seasons, in which finding your size is an ultimate challenge.

The other tempting stock, is two button light brown sport jacket in cotton, cut slim and tight, with working cuff button, a detail usual found in bespoke or high street brand. Needless to say is the jacket will also work as a perfect combination for your linen like shirt, short or long sleeve alike, and this only comes with a price tag of IDR700k, way cheaper than any comparable items I found in Zara, or G2000.

If that is not enough, refer to a brown or navy blue lining less linen jacket, priced at IDR800k, roughly quarter of my bespoke navy blue linen jacket that takes 2 months to commission.

All I’m saying is, regardless what the store looks like and other products that are being sold in the same store, Muji clothes and dresses are worth to look, the materials are nice, and the detail and workmanship looks ok (haven’t got a chance to have one my self). And much importantly, is affordable and not a cent overpriced.

If you think Zara is awesome, try Muji !!!

A good friend of mine is about to get married next week, and being honored as well as excited as one of the groomsman, I contacted my two tailors, one to commission a black two button suits the other is to order a pair of white dress shirts.

As you are well aware, I’m not a first time customers for both tailors, and knowing their past performance I allowed myself plenty of time margin to mitigate any contingency. Alas, even with level of experience that I have, sometimes few weeks of time margin is still not enough. These are what happened with my two projects.

The Black Suit
After went through a successful first fitting, the final results comes with a lot of disappointment, first the trousers is too loose on the leg, the shoulder too wide and bulky, and the arms an inch too long. Not happy at all with this I asked for iteration, addressing the above comments. A week later the result finished, and I’m still not happy. My tailor loosens one surface of the shoulder pads, shorten the arms and tighten the trousers. Unfortunately this is not enough, the shoulder is still to bulky, and the trousers pocket standout rather weirdly.

The Dress Shirts
The shirts were commissioned through a phone call, with rather simple instructions. Two order of shirts, in white, using the same material as my current shirts-which still in their possession, with French cuff and no breast pocket. The results ? Wrong material and comes with the breast pocket. This is not acceptable, and I have to refuse the shirt as it nowhere near my request (except the white part and French cuffs part). With only one week left, there is no way I can have the shirt ready on time, and hence I have surrender my desire to wear the new dress shirts to the wedding.

Obviously, the mistake comes from the tailors, whom for whatever reasons, producing the wrong results. But I should be able to mitigate this. For example for the suit, I should have sample jacket and sample trousers  shown to the tailor at the first meeting, ensure that he gets what I mean. And as for the shirts, I have 3 weeks to check on the first results, but I procrastinate, hence when the error is identified, I’ve loose any opportunity to fix it on time.

Regret always come to late, and if I have any advice to you, “Do not take any chance”.

Now that I have provided you with a reference of a good tailor, its now come to your discretion on what sort of details that you want to have when you come to the tailor and have your suit made. Generally, I will strongly advise you to visit dept store and designers boutique to see and feel what your preference going to be. The cut, the materials, the label, the lapel width, lapel type, pockets, buttons and every details that comes with the suit.

Usually, the tailor will have to ask you some obvious, such as the fabric choice,  suit type (single breasted, double breasted) some will go as far to ask what sort of buttons that you want (for some reasons, many Indonesian high end tailor, like to offer customer with fancy metal, emblem buttons, and for some reasons, many customers opted that rather then conventional mother of pearl).

But other than that beware, the suit that you would  get may not exactly what you have imagined. Hence, the list:

• Lapel, the choice can be peak or notched. For ordinary business requirement, choose peak lapel
• Lapel wide, in Asia (including Indonesia) the tendency for the tailor is to use wide lapel.  If you like prefer narrower one, like I do, ask him to do so
• Sleeve buttons,  four buttons only
• Vent, this is the tail of your suit, side vents for English style, single vents for American, no vents for Italian. My preference ? side vents, it helps you when you sit, and leaves the suit form intact.
• Number of buttons, two or three, but never four, and used one only for tux
• Shoulder Pad, generally it depends on your figure, if your shoulder sloppy you could as for full pad, but if your should big enough, ask for less pad, this will help accentuate your figure rather naturally
• Sleeve length, tell him that you want the suit shorter than the shirt sleeve, as such when you standing, and both of your arms on the side, 1 cm of your shirt sleeve will leaved exposed
• Same things goes with your shirt collar
• The trousers, can be pleated or not. If you on average build, you can opt for non pleated, it enhanced the slim posture
• Trouser can be cuffed or not. In general choose no cuff.
• Belt loop. Some opted for looples waist, hence enhancing the clean and slim line of the trouser. Surely you can gain or loose weight in a time, in which case you can add side adjuster instead.
• Breast pocket. In my experience, due to tendency to make a relatively wide lapel, it sometimes resulting the lapel covering the breast pocket. I prefer the line of breast pocket is visible and slightly touched on the corner by a lapel, but again, you may need to ask for it.
• If you have a picture of your wanna be suit, show it and leave it, it’s good that your tailor have other reference other than his note.

When its finally ready for first fitting, wear a shirt that you normally wear with your sit, buttoned the upper most button (if two-button) or two upper most (if three-button) of your suit jacker and examine the following details:

• Sleeve length should felt 1 cm shorter that your shirt sleeve
• Your lapel should felt 1 cm shorter that your collar
• Your trousers behind should felt straight above your shoe heel, while the front part will wrinkled slightly covering your shoe lace.
• Ensure that the lapel falls flat on your chest, and the back side felt close with the shirt collar with no gap in between
• The jacket waist drape nicely around your own, and minimum stretch
• Your shoulder doesn’t bulge
• When you move you arms within reasonable range the remainging of the jackets will stays.
• The jacket length should be suffice to cover your arse, but no to long.
• Ensure that other details follow your original requirement
• Finally, take some moment, to try walk, sit and stand still. In any of these body position, you should feel the utmost convenient. After all what is the purpose of the tailor made clothes if it’s not comfy.

If you think I missed anything on this list, feel free to add.

In my entire adult life, I have mostly acquired suits off the rack on the department store. My latest off the rack acquisition was two years a go, a black 2-button suits of doubtful fabric by the brand named Carthago. It’s ok, it’s not bad, but far from impressive, I am remotely satisfied, but that was what my money can buy, or at least so I thought. It wasn’t until long that one of my best friend got married, and she entrusted a beautiful batik materials in two tone, to be made a shirt.

Having no experience on custom made shirt, I put my confidence in the only tailor I am familiar with, not because of its workmanship, but because of his proximity (I regularly passed through his workshop everytime I go to work). As it happens to be, he is pretty established tailor in the district, he claimed to have tailored for a like such as city mayor, and district head. Quick observation on his suit sample, I found that it is of the decent quality. So without further due, I entrust my batik material in his hands. Some thorough measurement, and quick question on how I want the batik fits me, and two weeks later, its finished, and I’m amazed by the fit, and how beautifully the batik fits on my body. It cost me IDR200k for the tailor, money well spend.

Having satisfied with these, I came back to him again to have a gray suit commissioned. Now I have to admit, Pak Haji, as the old guy is fondly called is probably not one of those top of the notch tailor you’ll find in hotels or fancy malls. His fabrics are decent but not excellent, and his approach on tailor made service may not be comparable with those of Saville Row, but I tell you what he is, his price is affordable, he takes personal approach on each of his customers, and he gives good if not stubborn advice.

By no means I am an easy customer, so after the first thorough measurements, I return twice for refit and adjustments, and it took more than 1 month for my first suit to complete. But all in all, I am a happy customer. The fit was perfect, the material is very comfy and it compliments my figure.

Pak Haji is fairly flexible, unlike those snobbish tailor who usually insist on certain thing, he listened to my requirement, before he make comments on what he thinks about it. Whether he agree or disagree, you still can enforced your will, and he will delivers.

Having said that, his work can not be compared with the upper end tailor. His suit canvas is glued, not stitched and this alone attest that his work can not and must not be categorized in bespoke class, despite the fact that it is made from scratch and to your specific measurement.

A set of suit is offered at starter price of IDR900k (wool blend), a wool suit is started at IDR1.5mio up to IDR2.75mio. A shirt is offered at IDR250k for plain or IDR300k (stripped). You can also bring your own fabrics.

After two suits, an odd jacket, two trousers, a batik, and a dress shirts, do I still need to explain how satisfied I am ?

Paris Tailor can be contacted at 021-8619411

Three years ago, my wardrobe wasn’t even half of my wardrobe size today. As my work life progress so is my wardrobe, which explain why suits and shirts is now playing a major rule in my life.

Looking back at the time, I’m now contemplating, what is the absolute minimum wardrobe components that a man must have when he just graduated from college and now entering the workforce.

Now, it’s ideal to have at least one or two options for each of the components, but experience wise, I don’t think many of us – including me – have that sort of luxury. So in this list , I limit to one each. Here are my takes

• A dark grey suit. This is acceptable for formal ceremonies as well as business occasions. The bottom line of good suits is a fit, so put an attention on the fit and sizing rather than the brand
• A black woven silk tie. Which will complement most shirts and most suit to any occasion, funeral included
• Two whites/or blue normal cuff shirt – cotton only no silk. Far more important that any other color, in case you need to conduct interview two days in a row. As soon as you landed the job, expand the shirts immediately !!!
• A black cap toe oxford. Never fail options, works for business as well as formals. In Indonesia, this is probably one of the most formal shoes you will ever need for the rest of your life.
• A long sleeves – cotton or silk batik, in any color that suit your profile. Never forget that we live in Indonesia, and batik is inseparable parts of our culture
• Black plain socks. Why black ? Oh well , gray will work as well (provided that your trouser is gray). But mostly suitable because your shoes is black (much about matching socks color will be discussed in a different post)
• Stainless steel wrist watch. No need to be expensive, even the Rp.300k Casio will do just fine. This helps accentuate the smart/executive image when you are being interviewed
• Black belt. Absolutely essential, choose with the simplest buckle design as possible. Avoid expensive branded belt, that overly exposed their logo in the buckle (example of this would be Gucci)
• White cotton/linen pocket square. Handy for accessories as well as hygienic purposes. Better than pocket size tissue pack.

There are some major optional that you can add, if you think the above list is already in your wardrobe:

• Odd Jacket of any kind materials, handy for clubbing, and more casual occasion that doesn’t command full suit.
• A brown loafer, which will definitely go hand in hand with any jeans that you have. Excellent for dress down Friday.
• Short sleeve Batik in cotton.

For girls who read this, you may think that this list is no brainer, but trust me, there are plenty of lost souls out there that needs to be saved So please add if I missed anything.